The Human Race

Today was the world wide "Human Race" organized by Nike. Runners from around the globe all took part in a 10 kilometer (6.2 mile) race.
Race courses were set up in multiple cities: Shanghai, Melbourne, Singapore, Seoul, Taipei, Istambul, Rome, etc. Austin, New York, and LA were the locations in the US.
Paul decided to participate in the event too late to run in the physical race in Singapore (registration was already closed). However, the Nike+ training system provided a "virtual" alternative. The system tracks distance and time of a run and then uploads it to the Nike+ race system. The goal was to complete the race at a 9 minute/mile pace or better.
Mission accomplished: just under 54 minutes or 8:42/mile.

Dinner in Little India

One of our favorite areas of Singapore is Little India. Like Chinatown, Arab Street, and Geylang, Little India is one of the ethic enclaves. Walking around there is just like walking around a city in India.

The sights, sounds, and smells are terrific. There are jewelry shops where highly detailed gold artworks are sold by the gram (just like in India). There are video/music stores with the latest Bollywood releases on DVD, VideoCD and audio CD. There are handicraft stores and silk store galore. There are stands that sell flower garlands that Hindus take to temple with them as part of their worship rituals. And of course there are grocery stores and fresh fruit and vegetable stores.

Then there are the restaurants!

From the north to south of the Subcontinent, just about every variety of Indian food can be found. On prior visits, we've had dishes from Kashmir, Nepal, Kerala, and Tamil Naidu. This time, we decided to try The Banana Leaf Apolo, one of the highly rated options among the many choices in the district. It's a breeze to get to: from our apartment we just walk down the street to Lucky Plaza and take the #65 bus which takes us directly to Little India.

The restaurant is famous for it's fish head curry, one of the "uniquely Singaporean" regional specialties. We decided to give that a go another time as we were more interested in something more traditionally Indian. After pouring through the 10 page illustrated menu, we opted for tandoori lamb chops, black dal (lentils), and baigan burta (eggplant). For breads, Raye chose garlic naan and I was delighted to pick romali roti, a type of bread I really like but haven't found anywhere outside of India. And of course, Kingfisher beer. What a feast!

Like the restaurant name suggests, it was all served up on a banana leaf that serves as both placemat and plate (see photo). They'll bring silverware for those who prefer the Continental approach (that would be Raye), but the locals (and Paul) prefer the Sub-Continental approach of eating with your fingers.

The total bill came to S$50 ($36), with the lamb and beers the high ticket items.

After dinner we walked around, took in some more sights and smells, and enjoyed some pistachio barfi (Indian "fudge" made from condensed milk), and sohan papdi.

Another great evening in Singapore.

Chicken Surprise

This is actually about a wonderful dinner with some new friends on Saturday night. And like so many things, it was another Singapore learning experience.

Our guests were Elisa & Joe Chan and Nazim and Nazima Mohammed. Elisa is Jewish from New Jersey, her husband is Chinese, originally from Hong Kong, and the Mohammeds are native Singaporeans with roots in the Malay community. They are practicing Muslims and so this meant we had to serve Halal foods.

Unfortunately, our local grocery doesn't carry such items. So, we trekked over to the appropriate ethnic area near Arab Street and found it with no trouble. (Raye asked one of the hijab-wearing women where to find it.) The green label, the NTUC (local Safeway-like store) clerk tolds us, indicates a Halal chicken.

It was in a bag, pretty much like what you see back in the USA. However, when I opened the bag up, I got the chicken surprise. While there were no giblets within a parchment bag inside, as you can see, the head and feet were still attached. (The green band around it's neck is a Halal certificate.)



While the grilled chicken recipe turned out well, the conversation was even better. It ranged from shopping secrets (where to get the best fruit at the lowest prices), to what it's like being in the Singapore military, to how to travel safely in Malaysia, to the wide variety of moon cakes now available for the mid-autumn festival. It was a poly-cultural smorgasbord.

One of the tidbits we picked up is why Singaporeans back into parking spaces and Malaysians park "head first". In Singapore, it is safer to get out of a space when you can see cross traffic in a busy garage. (In fact, many cars have sonar on the rear bumper to aid in backing in. However, in Malaysia, backing in makes it easier for someone to steal your car by lifting the front wheels (of a front wheel drive car) and towing it away.

Nazima and Elisa both work in schools here and Nazima is also a Singapore Regional Director in Destination Imagination. (She and Raye met at Global Finals in Knoxville in May.) So we talked about the public and private schools systems, curricula, and the various standardized testing regimens that shape student futures. Another interesting tidbit: all other things being equal, priority is given to students who live within 1km walking distance from a prestigious school. This means that certain housing locations have a premium value. And what's more, as most people live in high rise apartments, the 1km radius is actually specific to individual units, not to an entire building.

The evening went far too quickly and I hope we will have occasion for us all to get together again soon.

Tiger Balm Gardens

My cousin David G asked me if we'd been to Tiger Balm Gardens yet. We hadn't -- and since Dave has been to Singapore multiple times -- we decided to act on his suggestion and made the trip.

The "Uniquely Singapore" website describes the place as "fascinating, delightful, bizarre and entertaining, Haw Par Villa is like no other place in the world."

I'd say that about covers it.

If you've heard of Tiger Balm, then you already know some of the history of this place. It was built in 1937 by the one of the Tiger Balm founders, Aw Boon Haw, for his brother Aw Boon Par. It's known locally as Haw Par Villa after the brothers' first names. (Last names come first in Chinese.)

It was built as a place to learn about traditional Chinese stories and values. There are over a 1,000 statues so even the 41 photos in the photo album does not come close to capturing the scale of the place. Admission is free, except for $1 to go through the "Ten Courts of Hell" exhibit.

In this exhibit, you are treated to a graphically detailed portrayal of the Chinese equivalent of Dante's Inferno. In each court there is a sign of the offenses covered by that court and the punishments. Following that is the gruesome diorama depicting the punishments. It left me wondering what kind of conversations parents and children might have walking through the exhibit. And whether or not going here was a reward or punishment.

It's a definite "you must experience" kind of place on several levels. The artistry is remarkable, the scale is impressive, and the opportunity to gain insight into another culture's traditions is compelling. Even when it has a bit of "Ripley's" vibe going through it.

Thanks, Dave. Link to photo album.

Singapore Photos

Here is a slide show and link to some of the photographs we've taken that were too numerous to post on the blog. You can click on the slide show to go to the album or just click here.

Siem Reap - Updated

We are just back from our first adventure away from Singapore. We took advantage of the 3-day weekend here to visit Siem Reap, Cambodia. Siem Reap is the location of the ancient capital of the Khmer empire from roughly between 900-1500 CE. There will be more to write/update and we'll have to set up a different way to share the many photos we took. Cambodia was amazing and it was fascinating to learn about the ancient history and intensely interesting to hear about more recent events on a first-hand basis.


In front of Angkor Wat.

Here is a slide show with about 50 photos from the weekend.  You can click on it to see larger images or just click here to see the entire album.

The Random Singapore Walk

The sun was shinning, the temperature was not too hot, and the humidity was relatively low for Singapore. In short it was a perfect day for an exploratory walk around Singapore. As we set out, our general destination was the Quays (pronounced "keys"). There are three of them: Boat, Clarke, and Robertson in order as one goes up the Singapore River. These are scenic parts of Singapore with many restaurants, pubs, and shopping.

We were in no particular hurry, so we decided to go in any direction that looked interesting as we walked along in the sort-of general direction of downtown. We brought along the camera so we could share the interesting things we found. We also brought along Paul's cell phone (with the built-in GPS) just in case we really got turned around. Singapore is small and very interesting, so we got more use of the camera.

Of course we stopped on occasion to sample some local treats. Like Hong Kong ice cream for example. It costs S$1 and is served from pushcarts. The vendor takes a block of the ice cream of the flavor you picked and cuts a slab from it. He then serves the slab to you between two sugar wafers (Hong Kong style) or wrapped in a slice of multi-colored bread (Singapore style). We opted for the bread this time, having tried the wafer version a few weeks back.

There are interesting things around just about every corner. Here's group of rickshaws cruising down North Bridge Road that we almost missed. As you can see, they are right in the middle of traffic.
We found ourselves on Waterloo Street, a small street that is the very model of religious diversity. Magain Avoth, the large synagogue in town is at the south end. And at the north end, we found a beautiful Chinese Buddhist temple -- and right next door to it -- a spectacular Hindu temple.

In front of the Chinese temple were various vendors selling incense, fruits, and other items that one might need in the temple.

It occurred to me that these building would really stand out as being peculiar in Dallas. Here they really just seem to fit in naturally into the scenery. The styles of prayer are also different, in terms of sounds and movements, sights and smells. During our walk, we found a smaller place for Hindu puja that was set up in a small yard. On other walks, we found signs behind the public housing flats indicating that one particular spot was the authorized place for "religious burning."

Eventually we found our way to Boat Quay and walked along the river past Clarke Quay to Robertson Quay. Each of the Quays will be worth an extended visit on a future adventure. For example, we saw a bar called "the Highlander" which had a huge malt whiskey menu -- and Chinese waiters and waitresses wearing kilts. Another pub was called "the Clinic". It was decorated with old hospital equipments: OR lights, hospital cots, wheel chairs, etc. An old dentist chair (I think) is the centerpiece (you can see it between the two pillars in the photo).

It was a great walk that lasted about 4 hours. And we're both looking forward to doing another random walk again. You just never know what you're going to see next, and that makes it so much fun!

The Wet Market

Raye and her friend Teresa from Des Moines decided to do some classic Singapore shopping together. No, this was not a trip to the many department stores and boutiques of Orchard Road. It was an adventure into Little India to do some food shopping in one of the wet markets.
A wet market is where you'll find the freshest fish, seafood, meats, and produce. And yes, the floor is wet. And slippery. Just like some of the things you can buy there.
Raye was shopping for some fresh fish to use in a new recipe that Teresa gave her (along with some personal instruction and assistance). Raye especially appreciated Teresa's help as this was the first time she'd ever attempted making Ikan Percik (Grilled Fish in Spicy Coconut Marinade). In addition to the red snapper, she also bought things like lemongrass, galangal (a kind of ginger), tamarind juice, and gula melaka (palm sugar).
In case you're wondering -- Teresa learned the recipe at one of the many cooking classes in regional recipes that are offered around the city. She, her husband Tim, and their 3 teen-age+ children have been here while Tim was on a 3-month assignment.
The Ikan Percik turned out wonderfully for our 4 dinner guests Friday evening.